“For loafing around”: A Brief History of Loafers
From the plains of Native America to the trading floors of Wall Street, the loafer origin story is one of comfort, practicality, cultural identity and fish. With some form of the loafer dating back to Native Americans, the loafer and moccasin are versatile shoes with an extensive history.
In this guide, we aim to shed light on the rich history of loafers and address some of your questions about their origins. We will also discuss some of the origin stories of the most popular loafer styles: the penny and tassel loafer. So, if you enjoy a bit of shoe history, come along and discover where your favourite shoe came from.
Table of contents:
- What are loafers?
- Where did loafers originate from?
- What is the difference between loafers and moccasins?
- When were loafers invented, and who invented loafers?
- When were loafers popular?
- Why are loafers called loafers?
- The history of the penny loafer
- The history of the tassel loafer
What are loafers?
In essence, loafers are a type of slip-on shoe that forgoes laces. They are typically low-cut, exposing the ankle. They also feature a low heel (which is separate from the sole), with the upper often featuring a moccasin-like construction, but this can vary from style to style.
There are various types of loafers available, characterised by different decorative elements attached to the vamp (the upper part of the shoe), such as straps, tassels, or metal accents. But where did this impeccable shoe come from? Join us as we delve into the fascinating history of this shoe.
Where did loafers originate from?
The origin of the loafer has a somewhat blended and debated history, with influences and origin stories stemming from various places and different timelines. Primarily, the style appears to have originated in Norway, America and Britain, with Native American moccasins playing a significant role in its inspiration. Let’s take a closer look at the origins of the loafer and moccasin.
Native American origins
To tell the history of loafers, you have to go back to a time when shoes were in their infancy–they’re that old!
Native Americans fashioned themselves stitched leather footwear from deerskin, elk or buffalo hides, which they named “Makasins”, meaning “shoe”–not coincidentally, this is where the term ‘mocassin’ comes from today. The oldest pair of Makasins in existence dates back to approximately 3500 BC. They were designed to protect the foot while also allowing the wearer to feel the ground, which was crucial for hunting, tracking, and navigating varied terrains.
Norwegian origins
Fast-forward a few thousand years to Europe, where Norwegian fishermen and farmers wore moccasin-style slip-ons for comfort and practicality, similar to the ones worn by Native Americans, which Norwegian fishermen may have adopted on trans-Atlantic trips. Well-suited for rural life and varied terrain, they were sometimes called “teasers” and became the inspiration for the modern-day loafer.
What is the difference between loafers and moccasins?
While moccasins are the original inspirations for modern-day loafers, they do have a slight difference. Moccasins are traditionally made with soles and sides from a single piece of soft leather, such as deer, elk, or moose hide, and drawn up around the foot. The U-shaped piece, known as the vamp or plug, is typically sewn onto the top of the foot with a visible, often puckered hand-stitched seam.
Historically, moccasins have a very soft, flexible sole, often just a continuation of the upper leather. Even modern moccasins typically feature a thin, highly flexible sole, sometimes with small rubber nubs for added grip, more akin to driving shoes. With that said, moccasins traditionally don’t have a separate, defined heel and instead have a flat or very minimal integrated heel.
Many loafers retain the moccasin-style upper (the U-shaped vamp with characteristic stitching); this is where you can see loafers getting their inspiration from moccasins. Still, their more structured form characterises them as a distinct style.
When were loafers invented, and who invented loafers?
A Norwegian shoemaker called Nils Gregoriusoon Tveranger, born in Aurland, spent several years in Boston studying shoemaking in the late 19th and early 20th century. During this time, he honed his shoemaking skills. While there, he was exposed to the moccasins of Native American tribes, particularly the Iroquois. He was deeply impressed by their comfort, flexibility, and unique construction.
Upon his return to Aurland, Norway, in the early 1900s, he decided to create a style for the market, having noted its popularity among visitors. Tveranger began to combine his newfound knowledge of American moccasin construction with the traditional Norwegian “teasers” and other local styles. The result of Tveranger’s fusion was the “Aurland shoe” or “Aurland moccasin.” A distinctive slip-on shoe that retained the moccasin’s comfort and ease of wear but was more robust and structured than a true Native American moccasin. It often featured the characteristic U-shaped vamp and stitched upper that we now associate with loafers. These shoes quickly gained popularity within Norway for their practicality and comfort.
International exposure and adoption
The Aurland shoe didn’t stay confined to Norway. Travellers to Norway were fond of the fishermen’s footwear and took them back to England and the States. American travellers visiting Norway and “salmon lords”, English sportsmen who came to fish, noticed these comfortable and stylish slip-ons worn by the locals. They appreciated their unique blend of casualness and functionality.
Word of these “Norwegian moccasins” or “Aurland shoes” spread, with Esquire magazine featuring an article in the 1930s showcasing Norwegian farmers wearing them in “cattle loafing areas”, further piquing American interest.
American shoe manufacturers were eager to capitalise on this interest and began producing their own versions. The most famous was G.H. Bass & Co., which introduced a version in 1934 and famously called them “Weejuns”, a playful phonetic shortening of “Norwegians”.
When were loafers popular?
1950s: In the US
In the US, it was during the 1950s that the popularity of the loafer gained exponential growth. A surge of high-profile Americans were seen wearing them on the stage and screen, including Katherine Hepburn, Cary Grant and Fred Astaire. The then-president John F. Kennedy was also seen wearing them during this period, further boosting their appeal.
The style also became an iconic part of Ivy League fashion among college students in the United States, personifying a preppy fashion and cultural identity that remains relevant to this day.
1960s-1970s: In Europe & beyond
In the 1960s and 1970s, Gucci elevated the loafer’s status with its distinctive metal hardware horsebit loafer design, bridging the gap between casual and formal wear and helping to make loafers acceptable with suits.
During this period, loafers had a more refined status. They were more widely accepted in formal settings, particularly in the US and Japan, where they were often worn on Wall Street as a symbol of sophistication and prestige.
1980s
With the rise in “power dressing,” loafers remained a strong fashion staple for men and women who wanted to wear footwear that symbolised success and luxury. Gucci loafers, in particular, were favourites amongst Wall Street traders.
1990s-2000s
The 1990s witnessed a shift in loafer designs, with designers experimenting with chunky soles and heavier silhouettes, reflecting the subculture and trendsetting styles of the era.
However, the turn of the century brought a revival of the classic loafer, particularly on college campuses, but with more rugged versions being the norm.
2010s-Present
Today, loafers remain a timeless classic. They have rarely been “out of style” since the 1950s, solidifying them as a versatile wardrobe staple for men and women. With modern iterations being redesigned every season, there is a loafer for every fashion taste, from business casual to street style. Their ability to seamlessly transition between formal and casual attire has always ensured their enduring appeal.
Arguably, the peak periods of their widespread popularity were during the 1950s (in particular, the penny loafer) and during the 1980s with the Gucci horsebit loafer. During both instances, they became a symbol of a particular fashion era and lifestyle. However, now they are considered a perennial classic.
Why are loafers called loafers?
But where does the term “loafer” come from? While the Norwegian “Aurland shoe” and its inspiration from Native American moccasins are often cited as the direct ancestor of the modern loafer’s widespread popularity, there is a significant British theme in its origins, particularly the concept of the casual, laceless house shoe for the aristocracy and the name itself.
British origins
Wildsmith & Sons (Established in 1847) was founded by Matthew and Rebecca Wildsmith and specialised in making and repairing military boots for the household cavalry. Their reputation for quality and bespoke craftsmanship grew, leading them to craft shoes for the Royal Household and other members of the British elite.
In 1926, Raymond Lewis Wildsmith (Matthew and Rebecca’s grandson) was commissioned to create a comfortable, casual shoe for King George VI (who was then the Duke of York before becoming King) to “loaf around” in.
The Wildsmith loafer was a simple, elegant slip-on design, often featuring a serrated seam and a reinforced toe. It was designed for comfort and ease of wear in a relaxed, private setting.
However, similar styles had been around since the Regency era: Opera Pumps, or ‘court shoes’, had been in rotation among the higher classes since the 1700s and represented the pinnacle of formal wear. For the English, it was a case of dressing down the court shoes and slippers of the era into something more versatile and practical.
The Wildsmith Loafer was the first slip-on shoe of its kind in London and was very successful within aristocratic circles. Its design influenced other British shoemakers, who created similar styles. Even though it was initially an indoor shoe, it laid the groundwork for the acceptance of elegant, laceless footwear within the British gentleman’s wardrobe, contributing to the broader evolution of the loafer.
American manufacturers and consumers likely adopted the term “loafers” because it perfectly captured the essence of the shoes’ relaxed and comfortable nature during the 1930s.
However, it’s essential to recognise that the British and Norwegian origins often represent two distinct, yet ultimately converging, paths in the loafer’s history. The British loafer focused on a refined, comfortable, laceless house shoe for the gentry and royalty, emphasising sophisticated leisure. At the same time, the Norwegian moccasin focused on a practical, robust slip-on outdoor shoe designed for fishermen and farmers, offering functional comfort for daily life and work. Both are different, but equally important.
The history of the penny loafer
But where does the penny loafer, arguably one of the most famous and recognisable versions of the loafer, fit into history? We’re here to uncover this mystery.
When were penny loafers invented, and who invented the penny loafer?
Some of the first G.H. Bass “Weejuns” featured a unique leather strap that was stitched across the vamp and had a diamond-shaped cutout. Initially, this was purely a design feature, an aesthetic detail.
These shoes became incredibly popular among American college and prep school students in the 1950s. Seen as the epitome of comfortable, casual, yet smart footwear for campus, they fit perfectly with the emerging “Ivy League” style.
Why are they called penny loafers, and why do people put pennies in their loafers??
The story of how the penny loafer got its name is largely the result of that student culture. Students began the trend of inserting a penny (or sometimes a dime) into the diamond-shaped slot on the strap of their Weejuns for potential emergency phone calls from a payphone. More realistically, it was likely a fashion statement and a way for students to personalise their shoes and distinguish themselves. It became a symbol of belonging to a certain subculture.
Some also believe it was a form of good luck charm. Regardless of the exact reason for the penny’s insertion, the practice became so widespread that the term “penny loafer” became the generic name for this style of shoe, completely overshadowing “Weejun” in popular vocabulary.
When were penny loafers popular?
The penny loafer’s popularity soon spread beyond college campuses. It became a versatile staple for men’s casual and business-casual wardrobes in the 1950s. With celebrity endorsements from icons like John F. Kennedy, Paul Newman, James Dean, and Elvis Presley, who were frequently photographed wearing penny loafers, their status as a stylish and cool shoe was further cemented.
Today, the penny loafer remains a timeless classic, as popular today as it was in the 1950s, due to its versatility. While the functional reason for the penny is largely gone with the advent of mobile phones, the tradition and the name persist, a charming nod to its mid-century American roots.
Why not discover modern penny loafers for yourself and enjoy their practicality and versatility?
The history of the tassel loafer
But what about other loafer types? The tassel loafer has a distinct and interesting origin story, emerging in the post-World War II era as a more refined and dressy alternative to the less embellished penny loafer.
When were tassel loafers first seen?
The story of the tassel loafer begins with Paul Lukas, a Hungarian-American actor who won an Oscar in 1943. In the late 1940s, Lukas returned from a trip to Europe with a pair of Oxford shoes that had an unusual and decorative feature: small leather tassels at the ends of their laces. He was quite taken with this unique detail.
Lukas wanted to replicate this look but on a more comfortable, slip-on shoe. He approached a New York firm, Farkas & Kovacs, with his European Oxfords, asking them to create a similar design but with the tassels integrated into a laceless shoe. While they attempted, Lukas wasn’t entirely satisfied with the fit or execution.
Still seeking perfection, he took the Oxfords to Lefcourt, a prominent shoe store in New York, and Morris Shoemakers in Los Angeles. They both struggled to incorporate the tasselled Oxford concept into a comfortable slip-on shoe, so they eventually turned to the highly respected and established shoemaker Alden Shoe Company in Massachusetts during the early 1950s.
Arthur Tarlow Sr., then president of Alden, took on the challenge. He saw the potential in creating a sophisticated slip-on that incorporated decorative tassels. He worked on a completely new pattern, taking the aesthetic of the tasselled laces and translating it into a permanent decorative feature on the vamp of a loafer.
After further refinement, the first Alden tassel loafer was officially launched in 1950. It initially premiered in high-end retailers and was an immediate success, particularly with the more sophisticated and style-conscious gentlemen in New York and Los Angeles. It offered a dressier alternative to the increasingly popular penny loafer, which was perceived as more casual and typically associated with college campuses.
The tassel loafer’s reputation grew further with the introduction of the Brooks Brothers’ version in 1957, a quintessential American clothier and bastion of Ivy League style. Throughout the 1960s and beyond, the tassel loafer became synonymous with professionals, particularly lawyers and scholars. This association became so strong that it was often referred to as the “lawyer’s shoe” or “the Wall Street shoe.” It offered the comfort of a slip-on while maintaining a level of formality appropriate for professional environments.
Why not elevate your wardrobe with a modern iteration of this esteemed style?
Final thoughts
And there you have it: a history of loafers, where they came from and how they were inspired into being.
It’s challenging to find a shoe with a similar style that can be applied to various styles, formalities, cultures, and climates. Its versatility knows no bounds, even in today’s fashion.
Shop loafers at Cheaney Shoes
Rest assured, there’s probably a loafer to suit your needs–smart black leather, sumptuous unlined suede, or rugged rubber soles. Discover our collection of loafers at Cheaney. Whether you want to add a preppy touch to your outfit or a laid-back twist to your formalwear, our loafers are inspired by their illustrious history for the modern gentleman.
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