Leather Guide
We can only produce long lasting shoes by sourcing and fully understanding high grades of leather. We use a variety of leathers, and are continuously discovering new treatments and characteristics to include in our collections to make them as individual as possible. The majority of our leathers are sourced close to home or in the EU, and we are striving to source locally as much as possible to lower our impact in upcoming collections.
Below is a list of leathers found in our collection today.
Calf Leather
Calf leather forms the foundation of a large majority of our styles due to its classic appeal, hardwearing nature and adaptability. Our signature leathers are sourced from tanneries within Europe. Burnishing refers to slightly darker shades being applied to the shoe, specifically around the toes and heels - meticulously done by hand in our factory, burnishing gives each shoe personality and shows off the leather beautifully.
Museum Calf Leather
Museum finest grade calf has been tanned by hand whilst the leather is still wet, resulting in a beautifully marbled effect of light and dark tones. Due to its unique nature, no two pairs of shoes in museum calf look the same and the wearer can manipulate the colour over time depending on the creams and waxes they use. Museum calf offers an individual yet subtle look.
Country Grain Leather
Country grain is achieved by embossing our classic calf leather to create the grain effect, otherwise known as pebble grain. Revered for disguising creases and imperfections, this leather lends itself perfectly to our countrywear collection due to its resilience. Country grain also softens up very well around the foot, resulting in a shoe that you can wear all day with comfort.
Kudu Leather
Kudu is a species of antelope native to the African Savannah. As it is a wild animal, kudu leather is naturally imperfect and has scars and scuffs as a result of life in a wild environment. Incredibly soft to the touch yet just as strong as other leathers, kudu is a fairly low-maintenance leather and creates less wastage than other leathers due to the inclusion of imperfections.
Chromexcel Leather
Sourced from the world-famous Horween tannery in Chicago, Chromexcel leather is incredibly practical, low maintenance and utilitarian with the added benefit of aging in an appealing and individual way. The 28-day tanning process involves some 89 different processes, some done around the clock, to ensure a good yield. The inclusion of oils in the tanning results in a highly water-resistant leather which takes on an antique look over time.
Pull Up Leather
Pull up leather refers to any hide that has been treated with oils in the tanning process, resulting in a recognisable tonal difference when the shoe is worn. These leathers also antique beautifully and look better for their imperfections over time.
Eco - Oiled Leather
Found on our Eco-Aware collection, this particular leather is sourced from English tannery C.F. Stead and represents a focus on environmentally-friendly tanning by following strict wastewater regulations and cutting down on harmful chemicals. Because of the tanning process, this leather will also take on its own patina as it is worn.
Bookbinder / Polished Leather
Bookbinder undergoes an extra process during tanning which adds a uniform high-shine effect over the whole hide. This not only sets this leather apart aesthetically, but also assists with water resistance. This leather may be slightly lower maintenance than classic calf leather in terms of polishing, though is slightly less adaptable around the foot.
Rub-Off Leather
Rub Off leather, as the name suggests, is created by applying layers of dye on top of the original colour and 'rubbing off' certain areas using friction mops in our factory. Similar to burnishing, this technique yields individual results each time and is testament to the skill and handwork of our skilled workers.
Patent Leather
Patent leather goes through a similar process to bookbinder leather, but taken even further to create a mirror-finish on the leather. Used exclusively on our evening wear shoes, this is a leather for special occasions and shouldn't be used every day. Patent leather is an ideal choice for black tie events and will ensure your outfit is elegant and appropriate to the dress code.
Suede
Suede is the underside of the leather hide and has a soft, textured surface referred to as the 'nap'. Supremely comfortable and adaptable around the foot, suede is seen as slightly more casual and offers a relaxed approach to classic styles. Often mistaken as a fragile material, a good quality full-grain suede is just as hardwearing as calf leather and is easy to maintain across every season.
Calf Suede
Calf suede is sourced from the finest European tanneries. A very high quality full-grain suede, the strength and comfort of this particular material makes it an excellent choice for year-round styling, retaining an even nap and an unparalleled vibrancy of colour.
Waxy Commander
Waxy Commander was developed in the 1990s at the request of an iconic English shoe brand seeking rugged, hard-wearing, and water resistant suede. This leather met those requirements so well that C.F. Stead named it "Waxy Commander."
Its unique tannage involves shrinking the hide by up to 25% to tighten its fiber structure, enhancing its strength and impermeability. The leather is heavily waxed during tanning, resulting in a water resistant product with a stubble-like texture that reveals depth with every crease.
Hatched Grain
Horween Hatched Grain Leather pays homage to the illustrious Russian Calf, a material steeped in history and craftsmanship. This luxury leather reflects a rich legacy and is renowned as one of the world's finest. Its tanning process, known to only a select few, has been an envied secret, cherished for generations.
Nubuck
Nubuck is made from the outer layer of leather, which is sanded to create a soft, velvety surface. While it has a similar look and feel to suede, nubuck is slightly more durable due to its stronger grain structure. However, it is still prone to scratches and stains, requiring regular maintenance to keep its appearance. Nubuck offers a refined, versatile look that works well in both casual and semi-formal settings. Although it handles light moisture better than suede, nubuck is not fully water-resistant and benefits from protective treatments to maintain its quality over time.
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