Leather Guide

We can only produce long lasting shoes by sourcing and fully understanding high grades of leather. We use a variety of leathers, and are continuously discovering new treatments and characteristics to include in our collections to make them as individual as possible. The majority of our leathers are sourced close to home or in the EU, and we are striving to source locally as much as possible to lower our impact in upcoming collections.

Below is a list of leathers found in our collection today.

Calf leather forms the foundation of a large majority of our styles due to its classic appeal, hardwearing nature and adaptability. Our signature leathers are sourced from tanneries within Europe. Burnishing refers to slightly darker shades being applied to the shoe, specifically around the toes and heels - meticulously done by hand in our factory, burnishing gives each shoe personality and shows off the leather beautifully.

Museum finest grade calf has been tanned by hand whilst the leather is still wet, resulting in a beautifully marbled effect of light and dark tones. Due to its unique nature, no two pairs of shoes in museum calf look the same and the wearer can manipulate the colour over time depending on the creams and waxes they use. Museum calf offers an individual yet subtle look.

Country grain is achieved by embossing our classic calf leather to create the grain effect, otherwise known as pebble grain. Revered for disguising creases and imperfections, this leather lends itself perfectly to our countrywear collection due to its resilience. Country grain also softens up very well around the foot, resulting in a shoe that you can wear all day with comfort.

Kudu is a species of antelope native to the African Savannah. As it is a wild animal, kudu leather is naturally imperfect and has scars and scuffs as a result of life in a wild environment. Incredibly soft to the touch yet just as strong as other leathers, kudu is a fairly low-maintenance leather and creates less wastage than other leathers due to the inclusion of imperfections.

Please see our Kudu certifications & sustainability practices for more information on how we source this responsibly as a by-product of the food industry.

Sourced from the world-famous Horween tannery in Chicago, Chromexcel leather is incredibly practical, low maintenance and utilitarian with the added benefit of aging in an appealing and individual way. The 28-day tanning process involves some 89 different processes, some done around the clock, to ensure a good yield. The inclusion of oils in the tanning results in a highly water-resistant leather which takes on an antique look over time.

Pull up leather refers to any hide that has been treated with oils in the tanning process, resulting in a recognisable tonal difference when the shoe is worn. These leathers also antique beautifully and look better for their imperfections over time.

Found on our Eco-Aware collection, this particular leather is sourced from English tannery C.F. Stead and represents a focus on environmentally-friendly tanning by following strict wastewater regulations and cutting down on harmful chemicals. Because of the tanning process, this leather will also take on its own patina as it is worn.

Bookbinder undergoes an extra process during tanning which adds a uniform high-shine effect over the whole hide. This not only sets this leather apart aesthetically, but also assists with water resistance. This leather may be slightly lower maintenance than classic calf leather in terms of polishing, though is slightly less adaptable around the foot.

Rub Off leather, as the name suggests, is created by applying layers of dye on top of the original colour and 'rubbing off' certain areas using friction mops in our factory. Similar to burnishing, this technique yields individual results each time and is testament to the skill and handwork of our skilled workers.

Patent leather goes through a similar process to bookbinder leather, but taken even further to create a mirror-finish on the leather. Used exclusively on our evening wear shoes, this is a leather for special occasions and shouldn't be used every day. Patent leather is an ideal choice for black tie events and will ensure your outfit is elegant and appropriate to the dress code.

Suede is the underside of the leather hide and has a soft, textured surface referred to as the 'nap'. Supremely comfortable and adaptable around the foot, suede is seen as slightly more casual and offers a relaxed approach to classic styles. Often mistaken as a fragile material, a good quality full-grain suede is just as hardwearing as calf leather and is easy to maintain across every season.

Eco-Buck suede is provided by English tannery C.F. Stead using local, grass-fed stock. Crafted with a focus on sustainability, this eco-friendly suede uses chrome-free tannage and adheres to strict waste water regulations to ensure an environmentally friendly product. Used exclusively on our Eco-Aware collection, this suede cuts down on both environmental impact as well as carbon footprint.

We are taking a closer look as a company to be more responsible and developing our sustainable practices to better the products for people and planet.

Janus suede is sourced from Charles F. Stead, one of the last remaining English tanneries, based in Leeds. A very high quality full-grain suede, the strength and comfort of this particular material makes it an excellent choice for year-round styling, retaining an even nap and an unparalleled vibrancy of colour.