A guide to Chukka boots: What’s the difference between Chukka boots and desert boots?
From the British Army to the silver screen, there is no doubt that Chukka boots are one of the coolest shoe styles to own. In this tell-all guide, learn about the history of Chukka and desert boots, where they came from and how they got their names. Although they look very similar, we will also help you to tell the difference between the two styles.
Whether adding Chukka boots to an outfit to add a touch of effortless style or swapping your dress shoes for a more casual boot for summer, we’ll give you our top tips for styling these iconic boots and how they should fit.
Table of contents:
- What are chukka boots?
- What are desert boots, and what’s the difference between chukka boots and desert boots?
- Why are they called desert boots?
- Why are they called chukka boots?
- How to wear chukka boots
- How should chukka boots fit?
What are chukka boots?
Chukka boots are fairly universal in their styling. They are low-cut boots that finish just above the ankle. They usually feature two or three eyelets and open lacing. Chukka boots are available in many materials, such as grain leather and suede, and are generally seen in versatile colours.
Due to their low cut, chukka boots are a halfway house between shoes and boots and have usefully carved out a place for themselves in terms of adaptability. Equally at home with jeans and laid-back tailoring, they are popular all year round and have been a consistent best-seller at Cheaney since we started.
What are desert boots, and what’s the difference between chukka boots and desert boots?
You may also have heard people call this boot style a “desert boot.” While desert boots are a type of chukka boots, not all chukka boots are desert boots.
There are a few key differences that distinguish the two styles. First, the sole. Desert boots have a distinctive crepe rubber sole, which features a crinkled texture created from tree sap. This sole is known for being lightweight, flexible, and shock-absorbing, making it great for summer. On the other hand, chukka boots typically have a studded or commando sole or, for a dress boot style, a leather sole.
Desert boots are also traditionally unlined and unstructured. In contrast, chukka boots are usually more structured and may have a leather lining on the insides. Because of these two distinct differences, desert boots are considered slightly more casual than chukka boots.
Why are they called desert boots?
Compared to most other mainstay shoe styles, such as Oxfords or Derbys, the rise in popularity of chukka and desert boots is quite recent.
During World War II, the troops stationed in southern Africa were woefully overdressed for the desert heat in cumbersome leather combat boots. Having seen the styles locals wore, they commissioned pairs to be made and worn during their downtime. The boots were crafted from lightweight suede and featured crepe rubber soles, combining lightweight comfort with rugged practicality to combat the harsh climate.
Nathan Clark, from a famous shoe company of the same name, picked up on their popularity when he was stationed in Burma in 1941. He saw soldiers wearing these durable, unlined suede boots with a stitch-down construction on crepe soles designed for desert conditions. After purchasing a pair from the local bazaar, Clark brought them home to recreate them in his Somerset factory. He began manufacturing them for general sale in the UK in the late 1940s. Marketed as the boot that ‘beat the desert’, they imaginatively called them ‘desert boots’; the rest is history.
Why are they called chukka boots?
There are two widely believed stories behind the name ‘chukka’. One is that the popular style was initially brought to southern Africa from India, where ‘chukker’ refers to a leisurely walk. The robust soles, comfortable uppers, and added ankle support would make sense for such a jaunt.
However, a ‘chukka’ is also the name given to a particular seven-minute play in a game of polo, where this footwear style has been historically favoured, cementing itself into the casual sports shoe bracket. The British Army, when stationed in India, used this boot to provide additional ankle support and comfort in the stirrups while playing polo. These versions were fully leather-lined and more structured.
How to wear chukka boots
Chukka boots are simple, practical and have stood the test of time. Therefore, they can easily be worn with various outfits. Due to their heritage and sportswear popularity, dressing them with casual clothing is as straightforward as it gets. A good pair of chukkas, especially in suede, would greatly enhance a pair of jeans and a fitted T-shirt.
Chino trousers and an unbuttoned shirt also complement a classic pair of leather or suede chukkas, making the perfect outfit for a business lunch or smart family occasion.
Alternatively, you can go full Mod-style and pair them with a slim-fitted suit, pin-collar shirt and a healthy dose of attitude.
How should chukka boots fit?
The same rules apply to chukka boots as to any other style of welted shoe. First, ensure the leather has breathing room to work around the foot and avoid pressure in the toebox or heel. This is even more important with chukka boots, as having room for thicker socks is beneficial if you want to wear them in winter.
The leather upper of chukka boots is uninterrupted from the toe to the top of the tongue, which sets it apart from most other styles. A crease will sometimes appear underneath the lacing, where the leather works around the instep and the front of the ankle. Trying a half-size-up should fix this problem or make it less noticeable. Ultimately, the leather will do what it needs to do to be comfortable.
Chukka boots at Cheaney Shoes
They’ve been favoured by film stars, rock stars and the armed forces, so why not join the club and treat yourself to what has become a true modern classic that every man needs in his wardrobe?
Browse our collection of men’s chukka boots at Cheaney Shoes today.
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