What’s a Goodyear Welt?
Sir Hardy Amies once said, “It’s totally impossible to be well dressed in cheap shoes.” And here at Cheaney, we pride ourselves on offering the highest-quality shoes to help you look your best, which is why the majority of our shoes are Goodyear-welted. It’s a well-known fact in the shoemaking world that a Goodyear-welted shoe is the pinnacle of footwear construction. Yes, it’s true they indeed cost a little more, but we’re here to reveal why they are absolutely worth the investment.
Learn about where Goodyear welted shoes originated, what they are exactly, how to spot them from the rest and why they are the only choice you should be considering for your formal or businesswear shoes.
Table of contents:
- What does Goodyear welted mean?
- How to tell if a shoe or boot is Goodyear welted?
- Why is a Goodyear welt better?
- Final thoughts: Are Goodyear-welted shoes worth it?
What does Goodyear welted mean?
Goodyear welting refers to a particular shoe and boot construction method used to create high-quality and mendable shoes. Charles Goodyear Jr. invented the machine to create the first Goodyear-welted shoe in 1869. He was the son of an American manufacturing engineer, Charles Goodyear Sr., and he patented the machine to manufacture shoes with incredible longevity, calling it the Goodyear welt.
What is Goodyear-welted construction?
A Goodyear welt refers to a strip of leather that is sewn around the perimeter of the leather upper and onto the insole. The outer sole is then sewn to the welt, as opposed to being directly sewn onto the upper like the blake stitch method.
The welt creates a cavity between the insole and outsole, which is filled with cork. The natural cork provides added insulation, protection and comfort for the highest-quality shoe.
How to tell if a shoe or boot is Goodyear welted?
Sadly, not all shoes will be Goodyear-welted; some manufacturers will glue the shoe or boot welt on and add aesthetic stitching to make the shoe appear as if it has high-quality construction. They’re cheaper but without the benefits of an actual Goodyear welt construction.
The way to tell if it’s Goodyear welted or not is to look at the stitching between the top of the welt and the outsole. This stitching should be a single thread attaching these two pieces. If the stitch is consistently finished on both sides, then you have a Goodyear welted shoe; if the stitching on top of the welt has a different density than the stitching on the outsole, you’ll know you’re looking at an impostor.
Don’t get us wrong, there is a time and a place for cemented shoe construction (when the sole is glued onto the upper). For example, our Kelly patent leather Oxford shoes benefit from this particular construction because it creates a more streamlined, sleek silhouette. When you’re looking for the most elegant and simplistic shoe style for a black-tie event, these shoes are the ultimate choice. However, these shoes are for special occasions only and therefore won’t be worn every day. When every effort is made to make the outfit look as sleek as possible, there is less of a need for a Goodyear welt in these circumstances.
Why is a Goodyear welt better?
But why go through all the trouble? Are Goodyear-welted shoes really better? The short answer is yes! But here’s why:
How long do Goodyear-welted shoes last?
One of the major benefits of a Goodyear welted shoe is its longevity. Goodyear-welted shoes are made to last. Not only does the stitching technique result in long-term durability, but the construction actually allows easy sole and heel replacement or resoling without damaging the leather upper.
With a Goodyear welt construction, your shoes can last for decades longer than cheap shoes that are glued together. Of course, taking care of the uppers by using shoe trees and polishing them correctly will help them last as long as possible, but being able to resole them even when they wear out means you can enjoy the same pair of shoes for decades.
When you purchase a Goodyear-welted shoe from Cheaney shoes, you can benefit from our resoling service. Our talented craftspeople lovingly give your shoe a new lease of life without affecting the shoe’s structure. Find out more about our repair service today or watch the video below to see our refurbishment service in action.
Are Goodyear-welted shoes comfortable?
Another obvious advantage of a Goodyear welted sole is its undeniable comfort. Unlike most other things in life, the comfort of welted shoes actually gets better with age.
As you wear a Goodyear-welted shoe, the cork filler, which goes between the insole and outsole, takes an impression of your foot, similar to memory foam, and the leather upper takes the shape of your foot. A Goodyear welt with cork is the mark of a high-quality shoe, as it moulds to the unique shape of your foot, providing unparalleled comfort and support when compared to cheaper forms of manufacturing.
Of course, there is always a “breaking-in” period for all good-quality shoes. It takes time for the upper to soften and the cork filling to flex and take an impression of your foot. Plus, if you have leather shoes, they will need to be scratched up a bit on a dry, gritty surface to ensure you don’t go unintentionally gliding across the office. But once the breaking-in period is done, roughly five to six wears, you’ll have unique support and supple comfort until they need to be resoled.
Are Goodyear-welted shoes waterproof?
Goodyear-welted shoes aren’t 100% waterproof; however, because of the level of high-quality construction and stitching, you do get a level of water-resistance. Plus, with the extra layer the welt provides to the sole, there’s more substance and height between your foot and the floor, meaning it’ll take longer for any moisture to make your socks soggy.
If you know you’ll potentially be using your leather shoes on your commute or there is a chance you may get caught in the rain, you always have the option of choosing a Goodyear-welted shoe with a rubber sole for additional waterproof protection.
All leather soles will eventually let water in. Still, with welted shoes, you have the added benefit of being able to repair them if they get damaged or swap to a rubber sole.
If you’re looking for even more water-resistant protection, take a look at our Veldtschoen constructed shoes, in particular our Pennine and Cairngorm models. This construction lends itself brilliantly to heavier country-style boots and shoes. The principle is still the same as Goodyear Welting, but instead of tucking the upper underneath to stitch through, it is splayed outwards and stitched to the welt, which effectively channels water away from the welt of the shoe, dramatically reducing water penetration. Veldtschoen constructed shoes are as close as you can get to a fully water-resistant shoe made using natural materials. Leather isn’t waterproof, but this comes pretty close.
Final thoughts: Are Goodyear-welted shoes worth it?
With only a couple of exceptions, the vast majority of Cheaney shoes are Goodyear welted. Our highly skilled craftspeople must perform every step of the Goodyear welting method. It is this labour-intensive construction method, along with the quality of materials used, that contributes to the larger price tag when compared to lesser quality high street brands. But is it worth the price tag?
The process is time-consuming and expensive, but the benefits are clear. In terms of price per wear, buying high-quality Goodyear-welted shoes will work out cheaper in the long run, as you don’t have to buy a new pair every time they wear out.
Instead of sending cheap shoes to landfills every year, invest in good-quality, sustainable footwear that has been lovingly made by artisans who are dedicated to making beautiful things. Good for you, your pocketbook and the planet!
Choose good-quality footwear and you will reap the reward for decades, giving you not only good-looking, comfortable shoes, but a footwear companion that will carry you through the years.
Goodyear-welted shoes at Cheaney
To us at Cheaney, the benefits are clear. If you’re looking for comfortable, high-quality footwear, shoes that mould to your unique foot shape and are water-resistant, that you can resole again and again, the choice is a simple one. Goodyear is king!
Why not invest in a Goodyear-welted shoe and start reaping the benefits? Shop Goodyear-welted shoes and boots for men and women here at Cheney shoes.
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